Honey and Beef Slow Cooker Ancient Roman Recipes Apicius
Apicius
De Re Coquinaria
p159 Volume 7. Sumptuous Dishes
Liber Vii. Polyteles
[In addition to the above chapters two more are inserted in the text of BookVII, namely Chap.10, Fresh Ham and Chap.XI, To Cook Salt Pork; these beingness inserted after Chap.9, Pork Shoulder, making a full of Nineteen Capacity.]
p160 I
Sow'south Womb, Cracklings, Udder, Tenderloin, Tails and Feet
Vulvae steriles, callum lumbelli coticulae et ungellae
251 Spayed Sow's Wombi
Vulvae steriles
Sterile sow'due south womb (likewise udder and belly) is prepared in this manner: take2 laser from Cyrene or Parthia, vinegar and broth.
i The vulva of a sow was a favorite dish with the ancients, considered a cracking delicacy. Sows were slaughtered before they had a litter, or were spayed for the purpose of obtaining the sterile womb.
2 2 Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.
252 Another Way
Aliter
Take pepper, celery seed, dry mint, laser root, honey, vinegar and broth.
253 Spayed Sow's Womb
Vulvae steriles
With pepper, broth and Parthian light amplification by stimulated emission of radiation.
254 Another Manner
Aliter
With pepper, lovagei and broth and a little condiment.
i Wanting in Lister.
255 Cracklings, Pork Skin, Tenderloin, Tails and Feet
Callum, lumbelli,1 coticulae, ungellae
Serve with pepper, broth and laser (which the Greeks call "silphion").ii
1 Tor., Yard.‑5. libelli.
2 Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.
256 Grilled Sow's Womb
Vulvam ut tostam facias
Envelope in bran, after1 put in brine and and so cook it.
1 We would contrary the process: first pickle the vulva, and so coat information technology with bran (or with bread crumbs) and fry.
p161 Ii
257 Sow's Belly
Sumen
Sow'southward udder or belly with the paps on information technology is prepared in this mode:ane the belly boil, tie it together with reeds, sprinkle with common salt and identify information technology in the oven, or, start roasting on the gridiron. Vanquish pepper, lovage, with broth, pure wine, adding raisin wine to sense of taste, thicken the sauce with roux and pour it over the roast.
1 Tor. judgement wanting in other texts.
258 Stuffed Sow's Belly
Sumen plenum
Totalane sow's abdomen is stuffed withii crushed pepper, carraway, salt mussels;º sew the belly tight and roast. Enjoy this with a alkali sauce and mustard.
ane Full grown, also stuffed with forcemeat.
2 Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.
3
Fig-fed Pork
Ficatum1
one Tor. De Sycoto , id est, Ficato.
259 Vino Sauce for Fig-fed Pork
In ficato oenogarumone
Fig-fed pork liver (that is, liver crammed with figs) is prepared in a wine sauce with2 pepper, thyme, lovage, goop, a little wine and oil.3
i Tor. Ficatum , iecur suillum.
Thayer's Note: Ficatum is the origin of the words for liver in several Romance languages: Italian fegato, Spanish higado, French foie.
ii Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.
3 Reinsenius, ficatum [or sicatum] pro jecore .
According to the invention of Marcus Apicius, pigs were starved, and the hungry pigs were crammed with dry out figs and so all of a sudden given all the mead they wanted to potable. The violent expansion of the figs in the stomachs, or the fermentation acquired acute indigestion which killed the pigs. The livers were very much enlarged, like to the cramming of geese for the sake of obtaining abnormally large livers. This latter method prevailed in the Strassburg District until recently when it was prohibited by constabulary.
Thayer's Annotation: foie gras is still produced by cramming geese. The two chief French regions producing it are the Southwest (specially Périgord) and Alsace. I've been unable and then far to confirm that the cramming of either geese or pigs was prohibited at any time in "the Strassburg District" — i.eastward., Alsace: but when Vehling wrote, Alsace was not French but part of Germany (1870‑1945), and the Germans may well have prohibited the inhumane exercise. If you have solid information, drib me a line, of course!
260 Some other Style
Aliter
Trim the liver; marinate in broth, with pepper, lovage, p162two laurel berries, wrap in caul, grill on the gridiron and serve.
Goll. Stick figs into the liver by making apertures with the knife or with a needle.
It is past no ways articulate that the liver is meant.
| Preparation: | Into the oven: |
| Out of the oven: | Sliced at the table: |
| Photographs and commentary © Nickolas Urpí 2018, by kind permission. Mr. Urpí writes: As Apicius was not clear on the cooking instructions, I followed the advice of a butcher and had the liver butterflied and cooked to a temperature of 135° Fahrenheit [a bit less than 60C] to a medium rare. The herbs, pepper, thyme, lovage, I mixed with liquamen and a vino goop that resembled the one from the oxygarum for mushrooms, which I interpreted to exist a blazon of stewing goop and rubbed in inside and outside the liver. I and then stuffed the liver with figs. I added a dash of grape juice since my studies led me to conclude Roman vino was probable slightly sweet. I fabricated the fault of cooking it in a bandage-iron pan, which cooked the bottom of the liver faster than the top. I would recommend covering information technology and keeping information technology in an elevated roasting pan so it steams and cooks evenly, remembering to baste it halfway through to proceed it from getting dry. Use toothpicks to keep it airtight and roast for 20 minutes at 350°[175C]. The result was delicious, however, as the flavor of the figs and of the liver were complementary. | |
IV
Tid bits, Chops, Cutlets
Offellaeane
1 Yard.‑V. Ofellae; manifestly the sometime Roman "Hamburger Steak." The term covers different small meat pieces, chops, steaks, etc.
261 Ostianane Meat Balls
Offellae Ostienses
Gear up the meat in this fashion2 Clean the meat of bones, sinews, etc. Scrape it as sparse as a skin and shape information technology. Beat pepper, lovage, cumin, carraway, silphium, 1 laurel drupe, moistened with broth; in a square dish place the meat assurance and the spices where they remain in pickling for two or three days, covered crosswise with twigs. Then place them in the oven to be roasted, when done take the finished meat assurance out. Crush pepper, lovage, with the broth, add a little raisin wine to sweeten. Cook information technology, thicken with roux, immerse the balls in the sauce and serve.
i Ostia, boondocks at the mouth of the river Tiber, Rome'southward harbour.
Thayer'south Notation: The site of ruins simply a footling less spectacular than Pompeii's, far less hot and crowded, and a short hour's commuter railroad train ride from downtown Rome. For a few casual photographs of my ain, only as well links to the nearly of import websites on the town, see my orientation page.
ii Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.
262 Apician Roulades
Offellas Apicianas
Bone the meat for the (roulades — a pork loin — whorl it, necktie it) oven, shape round, embrace with or wrap in rushes. Roast. When done, retire, allow to drip and dry out on the gridiron merely so that the meat does not harden. Crush pepper, lovage, rush,1 cumin, calculation broth and raisin vino to taste. Place the roulades with this sauce together in a sauce pan; finish by braising. When done, retire the roulades and dry out them. Serve without the gravy sprinkled with pepper. If too fat remove the outer skin.ii
i Cyperis, -os, -um, cypirus, variants for a sort of rush; probably "Cyprian Grass."
two Dann. Dumplings; but this formula appears to deal with boneless pork chops, pork roulades or "filets mignons."
p163 263 Pork Cutlet, Hunter Style
Offellae aprugneoone more
In the same manner you can make tidbits of sow'south belly2 pork chops to be prepared in a way to resemble wild boar arethree pickled in oil and broth and placed in spices. When the cutlets are done (marinated) the pickle is placed on the fire and boiled; the cutlets are put back into this gravy and are finished with crushed pepper, spices, honey, goop, and roux. When this is done serve the cutlets without the broth and oil, sprinkled with pepper.
i G.‑V. Aprugineo; listing Ofellae Aprugneae, i.e. wild boar chops or cutlets. Vat.MS. aprogneo more than; Tor. pro genuino more; Tac. aprogeneo — from aprugnus, wild boar.
Mutton today is prepared in a similar way, marinated with spices, etc., to resemble venison, and is called Mouton à la Chasseur, hunter style.
ii This sentence, probably belonging to the preceding formula, carried over by Torinus.
3 This sentence only in Torinus.
264 Tidbits Some other Way
Aliter Offellae
The balls or cutlets are1 properly fried in the pan, nearly done. Side by side prepare the following: i whole2 drinking glass goop, a glass of water, a glass of vinegar and a glass of oil, properly mixed; put this in an earthen baking dish, immerse meat pieces, stop on the fire and serve.
one Tor.
two Tor. Summi; list sumis, i.e. broth of the pork.
265 Tidbits in Another Style
Aliter Offellas
As well fry the cutlets this way:1 in a pan with enough of vino sauce, sprinkle with pepper and serve. Another way:ii the cutlets previously table salt and pickled in a broth of cumin, are properly fried.3
1 Tor. judgement wanting in other texts.
2 The texts have two formulae; by the transposition of the 2 sentences p164the formula appears as a whole and i that is intelligible from a culinary point of view.
3 The texts have: in aqua recte friguntur the aqua presumably belongs to the cumin pickle. To fry in water is non possible.
Five
Pick Roasts
Assaturaeone
1 Tor. De assaturae exquisitae apparatu.
266 Roasting, Plain
Assaturam simplicem1
But put the meats to be roasted in the oven, generously sprinkled with common salt, and serve it glazed with honey.2
one Brandt adds "apparently."
2 Respective to our present method of roasting; fresh and processed ham is glazed with sugar.
Roasting in the oven is not as desirable equally roasting on the spit, universally practised during the middle ages. The spit seems to have been unknown to the Romans. Information technology is seldom used today, although we accept improved information technology by turning it with electrical machinery.
267 Another Style for Roasts
Aliter assaturas
Have half-dozen scruples of parsley, of laser1 merely as many, half-dozen of ginger, v laurel berries, 6 scruples of preserved laser root, Cyprian rush 6, 6 of origany, a picayune costmary, 3 scruples of chamomile or pellitory, 6 scruples of celery seed, 12 scruples of pepper, and broth and oil equally much equally information technology will take up,two
1 G.‑V. asareos [?] Asarum, the herb foalbit, wild spikenard.
2 No directions are given for the making of this compound which are essential to insure success of this formula. Outwardly it resembles some of the commercial sauces made principally in England (Worcestershire, etc.), which are served with every roast.
Thayer's Annotation: To me, this looks less like a sauce and more similar a marinade, or even a rub, slightly moistened to brand it stick.
268 Another Condiment for Roast
Aliter assaturas
Beat dry myrtle berries with cumin and pepper, adding dearest as well broth, reduced must and oil. Oestrus and bind with roux. Pour this over the roast that is medium done, with table salt; sprinkle with pepper and serve.
p165 269 Another Roast Sauce
Aliter assaturas
half dozen scruples pepper, 6 scruples lovage, 6 scruples parsley, 6 scruples celery seed, half dozen scruples dill, vi scruples laser root, 6 scruples wild spikenard,1 6 scruples Cyprian rush, 6 scruples carraway, half-dozen scruples cumin, 6 scruples ginger, a pint of broth and a spoonful oil.
i Tor. assareos; cf. annotation one to ℞ No. 267.
270 Roast Neck1
Assaturas in collari
Put in a braisière2 and boil pepper, spices, honey, broth; and heat this with the meat in the oven. The cervix slice itself, if you like, is likewise roasted with spices and the hot gravy is simply poured over at the moment of serving.iii
1 A piece of meat from the neck of a food beast, beefiness, veal, pork; a muscular hard piece, requiring much care to make information technology palatable, a "pot roast."
2 A roasting pan peculiarly adapted for braising tough meats, with close-fitting cover to hold the vapors.
3 Tor. combines this and the foregoing formula. M.‑V. siccum calidum, for hot gravy. Perhaps a typographical mistake for succum.
Vi
271 Sauce for All Boiled Dishes
Jus in elixam omnem
Pepper, lovage, origany, rue, silphium, dry onion, wine, reduced wine, honey, vinegar, a little oil, boiled down, strained through a cloth and poured under the hot cooked meats.i
1 A very complicated sauce for boiled viands. Virtually of the ingredients are constitute in the Worcestershire sauce.
272 Sauce for Boiled Viands
Jus in elixam
Brand it thus: [Tor.] pepper, parsley, broth, vinegar, fig-dates, onions, petty oil, poured nether very hot.
p166 273 Another
Jus in elixam
Crush pepper, dry rue, fennel seed, onion, fig-dates, with broth and oil.
274 White Staff of life1 Sauce for Boiled Viands
Jus candidum in elixam
White sauce he says boiled dishes is made thus:2 pepper, broth, wine, rue, onions, nuts, a piddling spice, bread soaked to the saturation point, oil, which is cooked and spread under the meat.
i Our nowadays bread sauce, somewhat simpler, but substantially the same as the Apician sauce, is very popular with roast partridge, pheasant and other game in England.
two Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.
275 Some other White Sauce for Boiled Viands
Aliter jus candidum in elixam
Another white sauce for boiled dishes contains: pepper, carraway, lovage, thyme, origany, shallots, dates, honey, vinegar, broth and oil.
276 White Sauce for Overnice Food
In copadis1 jus album
Accept cumin, lovage, rue seed, plums from Damascus2 Soak in wine, add beloved mead and vinegar, thyme and origany to gustatory modality.3
1 Lacking definite description of the copadia it is difficult to differentiate betwixt them and the offellae. — Cupedia (Plaut. and Gell.), nice squeamish dishes, from cupiditas, appetite, desire for dainty fare. Hence Cupedinarius (Terent.) and Cupediarius (Lamprid.) a seller or maker of dainties, a confectioner.
2 Damascena they correspond patently to our nowadays stewed (dried) prunes. It is inconceivable how this sauce can be white in color, but, every bit a condiment and if taken in small quantity, it has our full approval.
3 G.‑V. agitabis, i.eastward. stir the sauce with a whip of thyme and origany twigs. Cf. annotation to following .
277 Another White Sauce for Appetizers
Aliter jus candidum in copadiis
Is made thus :1 pepper, thyme, cumin, celery seed, fennel, rue, mint,2 myrtle berries, raisins, raisin p167vino, and mead to taste; stir it with a twig of satury.3
1 Tor.
2 G.‑V., rue wanting.
iii An ingenious way to impart a very subtle flavor. The sporadic discoveries of such very subtle and refined methods (cf. notes to ℞ No. xv) should dispell once and for all fourth dimension the onetime theories that the ancients were using spices to excess. They only used a greater variety of flavors and aromas than we practice today, but there is no proof that spices were used excessively. The peachy variety of flavors at the disposal of the ancients speaks well for the refinement of the olfactory sense and the desire to bring variety into their fare. Cf. ℞ Nos. 345, 369 and 385.
278 Sauce for Tidbits
Jus in copadiis
Pepper, lovage, carraway, mint, leaves of spikenard (which the Greeks call "nardosachiom") [sic!]1 yolks, honey, mead, vinegar, broth and oil. Stir well with satury and leeksii and tie with roux.
1 Tor. [sic!] spicam nardi — judgement wanting in other texts. Thousand.‑5. nardostachyam, spikenard.
2 A fagot of Satury and leeks. Cf. notes to ℞ Nos. 276 and 277.
279 White Sauce for Tidbits
Jus album in copadiis
Is made thus:1a pepper, lovage, cumin, celery seed, thyme, nuts, which soak and clean, love, vinegar, broth and oil to be added.1b
1a 1b First three and terminal 3 words in Tor.
280 Sauce for Tidbits
Jus in copadiis
Pepper, celery seed, carraway, satury, saffron, shallots, toasted almonds, figdates, broth, oil and a little mustard; color with reduced must.
281 Sauce for Tidbits
Jus in copadiis
Pepper, lovage, parsley, shallots, toasted almonds, dates, love, vinegar, broth, reduced must and oil.
282 Sauce for Tidbits
Jus in copadiis
Chop hard eggs, pepper, cumin, parsley, cooked leeks, myrtle berries, somewhat more honey, vinegar, goop and oil.
p168 283 Raw Dill Sauce for Boiled Fish
In elixam anethatum crudum
Pepper, dill seed, dry mint, light amplification by stimulated emission of radiation root, cascade nether: vinegar, appointment wine, beloved, broth, and a trivial mustard, reduced must and oil to taste; and serve it with roast pork shoulder.
284 Briny Sauce for Boiled Dish
Jus in elixam allecatum
Pepper, lovage, carraway, celery seed, thyme, shallots, dates, fish brine,1 strained beloved, and wine to sense of taste; sprinkle with chopped green celery and oil and serve.
1 Yard.‑V. allecem; Tor. Halecem.
VII
285 Pig's Paunch
Ventrem porcinum
Clean the paunch of a suckling pig well with salt and vinegar and before long launder with water. And so fill up it with the post-obit dressing: pieces of pork pounded in the mortar, 3 brains — the nerves removed — mix with raw eggs, add together nuts, whole pepper, and sauce to taste. Shell pepper, lovage, silphium, anise, ginger, a picayune rue; fill up the paunch with it, not too much, though, leaving plenty of room for expansion lest it bursts while being cooked. Put information technology in a pot with boiling water, retire and prick with a needle then that it does not burst. When half washed, take it out and hang it into the smoke to take on color; at present boil it over over again and finish it leisurely. Next take the broth, some pure vino and a little oil, open the paunch with a small knife. Sprinkle with the goop and lovage; place the sus scrofa nigh the fire to heat it, plough information technology around in bran or bread crumbs immerse in sprinkle with brine and finish the outer crust to a gilt chocolate-brown.ane
1 The good old English language manner of finishing a roast articulation called dredging.
Lister has this formula divided into two; Danneil and Schuch brand three dissimilar formulas out of it.
p169 VIII
286 Roast Loins Fabricated Thus
Lumbuli assant ita fiunt
Split them into two parts so that they are spread outone sprinkle the opening with crushed pepper and ditto nuts, finely chopped coriander and crushed fennel seed. The tenderloins are then rolled up to be roasted; tie together, wrap in caul, parboil in oiltwo and goop, and then roast in the oven or bake on the gridiron.
1 "Frenched," the meat here being pork tenderloin.
two G.‑V. all-time broth and a little oil, which is more than adequate.
IX
287Broiled Picnic Ham Pork Shoulder, Fresh or Cured
Pernam
The ham should be braised with a good number of figs and some three laurel leaves; the skin is then pulled off and cutting into square pieces; these are macerated with honey. Thereupon make dough crumbs of flour and oilone lay the dough over or around the ham, stud the top with the pieces of the skin and then that they will exist broiled with the dough bake slowly and when done, retire from the oven and serve.2
one Ordinary pie or pastry dough, or mayhap a grooming like to streusel, unsweetened.
2 Experimenting with this formula, we have adhered to the instructions as closely every bit possible, using regular pie dough to envelop the parboiled meat. The figs were retired from the sauce pan long before the meat was done and they were served around the ham equally a garnish. At any upshot we partook of a grand dish that no inmate of Olympus would have sneezed at.
In Pompeii an inn-keeper had written the following on the wall of his establishment: Ubi perna cocta est si convivae apponitur non gustat pernam linguit ollam aut caccabum.
When we first beheld this message we took the inn-keeper for a humorist and a clever advertiser; but now we are convinced that he was in earnest when he said that his guests would lick the sauce pan in which his hams were cooked.
p170 288 To Melt Pork Shoulder
Pernaeone cocturam
Ham simply cooked in water with figs is usually dressed on a platter baking pan sprinkled with crumbs and reduced wine, or, yet better, with spiced wine and is glazed nether the open flame, or with a shovel containing red-hot embers.
1 Perna is normally practical to shoulder of pork, fresh, as well cured. Coxa is the hind leg, or haunch of pork, or fresh ham. Cf. note 1 to ℞ No.289 .
X
289 Fresh Ham
Musteis1 petasonemii
A fresh ham is cooked with two pounds of barley and 25 figs. When done skin, coat the surface with a fire shovel full of glowing coals, spread honey over information technology, or, what's better: put it in the oven covered with honey. When it has a nice color, put in a sauce pan raisin wine, pepper, a bunch of rue and pure vino to taste. When this sauce is done, pour half of it over the ham and in the other half soak especially made ginger breadiii The remnant of the sauce after most of it is thoroughly soaked into the bread, add to the ham.iv
1 Musteus, fresh, young, new; vinum mustum, new vino, must. Properly perhaps, Petasonem ex mustaceis; cf. note iii .
two Hum. verum petaso coxa cum crure [shank] esse dicitur. . . .
Plainly, we are dealing hither with fresh, uncured ham.
3 A sure beige or cake made of must, spices and pepper, perchance baked on laurel leaves. Mustaceus was a kind of cake, the flour of which had been kneaded with must, cheese, anise, etc., the cake was broiled upon laurel leaves.
4 Tor. continues without interruption. He has the three foregoing formulae thrown into one.
XI
290 Salary, Salt Pork
Laridi1 coctura
Embrace with water and melt with enough of dill; sprinkle with a petty oil and a trifle of salt.
i Lister, at this bespeak, has forgotten his caption of laridum, and now accepts the word in its proper utilise. This rather than belated correction by Lister p171confirms the definiteness of our ain earlier observations. Cf. note to ℞ Nos. 41 and 148.
XII
291 Sheep Liver
Jecinora hoedina vel agninaone
Melt thus: make a mixture of water, mead, eggs and milk in which thoroughly soak the sliced liver. Stew the liver in vino sauce, sprinkle with pepper and serve.
i G.‑V. Iecinera haedina.
292 Another Way to Cook Lung
Aliter in pulmonibus
Liver and lung are besides cooked in this style:i soak well in milk, strain information technology off if offensive in tastetwo Break 2 eggs and add a little common salt, mix in a spoonful honey and fill the lung with it, boil and slice.3
i Tor.
two Lungs of slaughtered animals are little used nowadays. The soaking of livers in milk is quite common; information technology removes the offensive taste of the gall.
3 G.‑Five. continue without break.
293 A Hash of Liver
Aliter
Crush pepper, moisten with broth, raisin wine, pure oil, chop the lights1 fine and add wine sauce.two
i Edible intestines, livers, lung, kidney, etc., are thus named.
two list, Tor., G.‑V., have both recipes in one. Dann. is in incertitude whether to divide them or not.
XIII
294 Home-made sweets
Dulcia domestica1 et melcae
Footling dwelling confections (which are called dulciaria) are made thus:2 lilliputian palms or (every bit they p172are commonly called)iii dates are stuffed — after the seeds accept been removed — with a nut or with basics and footing pepper, sprinkled with salt on the outside and are candied in dear and served.iv
ane Dulcia, sweetmeats, cakes; hence Dulciarius, a pastry melt or confectioner.
The fact that here attending is fatigued to home-made sweet dishes may clear upwards the absence of regular baking and dessert formulae in Apicius. The trade of the Dulciarius was so highly adult at that time that the professional bakers and confectioners supplied the unabridged home market with their wares, making it user-friendly and unprofitable for the domestic cook to compete with their organized business, a condition which largely exists in our modern highly civilized centers of population today. Cf. "Cooks."
2 Tor.
3 Tor.
4 However being done today in the same manner.
295 Another Sweetmeat
Aliter dulcia
Grate scrape, peel some very best fresh aphros1 and immerse in milk. When saturated place in the oven to heat but not to dry out out; when thoroughly hot retire from oven, pour over some beloved, stipple the fruit so that the honey may penetrate, sprinkle with pepperii and serve.
1 Tor., Tac., Lan. musteos aphros; Vat.MS. , One thousand.‑Five. afros; list apios, i.e. celery, which is farthest from the mark. Goll. interprets this a "cider apple," reminiscent, probably, of musteos, which is fresh, new, young, and which has here nothing to do with cider.
Aphros is not identified. Perhaps the term stood for Apricots (Former English Aphricocks) or some other African fruit or plant; Lister's celery is to be rejected on gastronomical grounds.
The above treatment would represent to that which is given apricots and peaches today. They are peeled, immersed in foam and sweetened with sugar. Apicius' heating of the fruit in milk is new to the states; it sounds practiced, for it has a trend to parboil any hard fruit, brand it more than digestible and reduce the fluid to a creamy consistency.
Thayer's Annotation: This looks like a recipe for stewed or candied angelica to me; angelica of course belongs to the celery family unit, and candy-coated angelica, far from being gastronomically unsuitable, is a frequent ingredient in the dandy archetype French desserts. For sure, it's Vehling who is way off the mark etymologically, connecting aphros with apricots; meet my note to ℞ No. 177.
2 The "pepper" again, as pointed out in several other places, here is some spice of agreeable sense of taste as are used in desserts today.
296 Another Sweet Dish
Aliter dulcia
Break slice fine white bread, crust removed, into rather large pieces which soak in milk and beaten eggs fry in oil, encompass with honey and serve.1
i "French" Toast, indeed! — Sapienti sat!
p173 297 Another Sweet
Aliter dulcia
In a chafing-dish puti honey, pure vino, raisin wine, pine nuts, basics, cooked spelt, add crushed and toasted hazelnuts2 and serve.
1 G.‑5. Piperato mittis. Piperatum is a dish prepared with pepper, whatever spicy dish; the term may here be applied to the basin in which the porridge is served. Tac. Dulcia piperata mittis.
two Dann. Almonds.
298 Another Sweet
Aliter dulcia
Crush pepper, nuts, dearest, rue, and raisin wine with milk, and cook the mixture1 with few eggs well worked in, embrace with honey, sprinkle with crushed nuts, etc. and serve.
1 Tractam, probably with a starch added, or else it is a nut custard, practically a repetition of ℞ Nos. 128 and 142.
299 Some other Sweetness
Aliter dulcia
Take a preparation similarone to the above and in the hot h2o bath or double boiler make a very difficult porridge of it. Thereupon spread it out on a pan and when absurd cutting it into handy pieces similar pocket-size cookies. Fry these in the all-time oil, take them out, dip into hot honey, sprinkle with peppertwo and serve.
1 This confirms the assumption that some flour or meal is used in ℞ No. 298 also without which this nowadays grooming would not "stand up upward."
ii It is freely admitted that the word "pepper" not always stands for the spice that nosotros know by this name. Cf. note 2 to ℞ No. 295 et al.
300 A Still Better Way
Aliter
Is to prepare this with milk instead of water.
301 Custard
Tyropatinam
Estimate the corporeality of milk necessary for this dish and sweeten information technology with dearest to taste; to a pintone of fluid take five eggs; for one-half a pint2 dissolve 3 eggs in milk and beat out well in that location is incorporate thoroughly, strain through a colander into an earthen dish and cook on a slow burn in p174hot h2o bathroom in oven. When congealed sprinkle with pepper and serve.3
i Sextarium.
2 advertisement heminam.
3 Dann. calls this a cheese cake, which is far-fetched conclusion, although standard dictionaries say that the Tyropatina is a kind of cheese cake. It must be borne in heed, however, that the ancient definition of "custard" is "egg cheese," probably because of the similarity in advent and texture.
Cf. ℞ Nos. 129 and 143.
302 Omelette soufflée1
Ova sphongia ex lacte
Four eggs in half a pint of milk and an ounce of oil well beaten, to brand a fluffy mixture; in a pan put a petty oil, and carefully add together the egg preparation, without letting it boil2 withal. Place information technology in the oven to let information technology ascension and when one side is done, plow it out into a service platter fold it pour over honey, sprinkle with pepper3 and serve.4
1 Dann. misled by the title, interprets this dish as "Floating Isle"; he, the chef, has completely misunderstood the ancient formula.
ii Tor. sinas bullire — which is correct. list facies ut bulliat — which is monstrous.
3 G.‑V.
four Tor. continues without interruption.
303 Cheese and Honey
Mel et caseumane
Prepare cottage cheese either with dear and broth brine or with salt, oil and chopped coriander.2
i Thousand.‑V. Melca . . . stum; listing mel castum, refined love; Tac. Mel caseum; Tor. mel, caseum. Cf. ℞ No. 294.
2 To flavour cottage (fresh curd) cheese today we use salt, pepper, cream, carraway or chopped chives; sometimes a picayune sugar.
14
304 Bulbs1
Bulbos
Serve with oil, broth and vinegar, with a little cumin sprinkled over.
ane Onions, roots of tulips, narcissus. Served raw sliced, with the to a higher place dressing, or cooked. Cf. notes to ℞ No. 307.
p175 305 Another Fashion
Aliter
Soakane the bulbs and parboil them in water; thereupon fry them in oil. The dressing make thus: accept thyme, flea-bane, pepper, origany, honey, vinegar, reduced vino, date wine, if yous like2 broth and a fiddling oil. Sprinkle with pepper and serve.
1 Tor. tundes; probably a typographical error, as this should read fundis, i.e.infundis. Wanting in the other texts.
306 Some other Fashion
Aliter
Melt the bulbs into a thick purée1 and season with thyme, origany, honey, vinegar, reduced wine, date wine, broth and a fiddling oil.
1 Tundes, i.due east. brew. Practically a correction of ℞ No. 305 , repeated by Tor.
307 Varro says of Bulbs1
Varro si quid de bulbis dixit
Cooked in water they are conducive to honey2 and are therefore also served at wedding feasts, but besides seasoned with pignolia nut or with the juice of colewort, or mustard, and pepper.
i The first instance in Apicius where the monotony and business concern-like recital of recipes is cleaved by some interesting quotation or remark.
Brandt is of the stance that this remark was added by a posterior reader.
two The texts: qui Veneris ostium quaerunt — "seeke the oral cavity of Venus."
This favourite superstition of the ancients leads many writers, equally might be expected, into fanciful speculations. Humelberg, quoting Martial, says: Venerem mirè stimulant, unde et salaces à Martiali vocantur. I.13, Ep. 34:
Cum sit anus conjunx, cum sint tibi mortua membra
Nix aliud, bulbis quam Satur esse potes.
We fail to discover this quotation from Varro in his works, M. Teren. Varro's De Re Rustica, Lugduni, 1541, but we read in Columella and Pliny that the buds or shoots of reeds were called by some "bulbs," by others "eyes," and, remembering that these shoots make very desirable vegetables when properly cooked, we experience inclined to include these amidst the term "bulbs." Platina also adds the squill or sea onion to this category. Nonnus, p84, Diaeteticon, Antwerp, 1645, quotes Columella as saying: Jam Magaris veniant genitalia semina Bulbi.
308 Fried Bulbs
Bulbos frictos
Are served with wine sauce [Oenogarum].
p176 XV Mushrooms or Morels1
1 It is noteworthy that the term spongiolus which creates and then much misunderstanding in BookII is not used hither in connection with mushrooms. Cf. ℞ No. 115.
309 Morelsone
Fungi farnei
Morels are cooked quickly in garum and pepper, taken out, allowed to drip; too broth with beat out pepper may exist used to cook the mushrooms in.
1 "Ashtree-Mushrooms."
310 For Morels
In fungis farneis
Pepper, reduced vino, vinegar and oil.
311 Some other Way of Cooking Morels
Aliter fungi farnei
In table salt h2o, with oil, pure wine, and serve with chopped coriander.
312 Mushroom
Boletos fungos
Fresh mushrooms are stewed1 in reduced vino with a bunch of dark-green coriander, which remove before serving.
1 Tor.
313 Another Mode of Mushroom
Boletos aliterone
Mushroom stems or buds, very pocket-size mushrooms are cooked in broth. Serve sprinkled with salt.
i Tor. Boletorum coliculi; One thousand.‑V. calyculos.
314 Another Way of Cooking Mushrooms
Boletos aliter
Slice the mushroom stems1 stew them as directed above and terminate by covering them with eggsii calculation pepper, lovage, a piddling beloved, broth and oil to taste.
ane Thyrsos.
p177 2 K.‑Five. in patellam novam; goose egg said about eggs. Tor. concisos in patellam; ovaque perfundes; Tac. ova perfundis.
Xvi
315 Truffles
Tubera
Scrape [castor] the truffles, parboil, sprinkle with table salt, put several of them on a skewer, one-half fry them; then place them in a sauce pan with oil, goop, reduced wine, wine, pepper, and dear. When done retire the truffles bind the liquor with roux, decorate the truffles nicely and serve.1
1 This formula clearly shows upwards the main Apicius. Truffles, among all earthly things, are the almost delicate and well-nigh subtle in season. But a principal cook is privileged to handle them and to do them justice.
Today, whenever we are fortunate plenty to obtain the best fresh truffles, we are pursuing almost the aforementioned methods of grooming every bit described by Apicius.
The commercially canned truffles bear not fifty-fifty a resemblance of their erstwhile selves.
316 Another Fashion to Prepare Truffles
Aliter tubera
Parboil the truffles, sprinkle with table salt and fasten them on skewers, half fry them and so place them in a sauce pan with broth, virgin oil, reduced vino, a little pure vinoone crushed pepper and a little beloved; allow them to finish gently and well covered when done, demark the liquor with roux, prick the truffles then they may become saturated with the juice, dress them nicely, and when real hot, serve.
i Preferably Sherry or Madeira.
317 Another Way
Aliter
If you wish you may also wrap the truffles in caul of pork, braise and then serve them.
318 Some other Truffle
Aliter Tubera
Stew the truffles in vino sauce, with pepper, lovage, coriander, rue, goop, dearest, wine, and a piddling oil.
p178 319 Another Fashion for Truffles
Aliter tubera
Braise the truffles with pepper, mint, rue, honey, oil, and a piddling vino. Heat and serve.
320 Another Manner for Truffles
Aliter Tubera1
Pepper, cumin, silphium, mint, celery, rue, love, vinegar, or wine, common salt or broth, a little oil.
1 Wanting in1000.‑V.
321 Another Way for Truffles
Aliter Tubera1
Cook the truffles with leeks, salt, pepper, chopped coriander, the very best wine and a little oil.
1 Wanting inTor.
This, to our notion of eating truffles, is the best formula, save ℞ Nos. 315 and 316.
XVII
322 Colocasium1 taro, dasheen
Colocasium
For the colocasium (which is really the colocasia constitute, as well chosen "Egyptian bean" utilize)2 pepper, cumin, rue, honey, or broth, and a little oil; when washed bind with rouxthree Colocasium is the root of the Egyptian edible bean which is used exclusively.4
ane Cf. notes to ℞ Nos. 74, 172, 216, 244; also the copious explanations by Humelberg, fol. 111.
ii Tor. who is trying hard to explicate the colocasium. His name, "Egyptian Edible bean" may exist due to the mealiness and bean-like texture of the colocasium tuber; otherwise there is no resemblance to a bean, except, mayhap, the seed pod which is not used for food. This simile has led other commentators to believe that the colocasium in reality was a bean.
The U. S. Section of Agriculture has in recent years imported various specimens of that taro species (belonging to the colocasia), and the plants are at present successfully beingness farmed in the southern parts of the United States, with fair p179prospects of becoming an important article of daily diet. The Department has favored u.s.a. repeatedly with samples of the taro, or dasheen, (Colocasium Antiquorum) and we have made many different experiments with this agreeable, delightful and important "new" vegetable. It tin be prepared in every way similar a potato, and possesses advantages over the irish potato as far as value of nutrition, flavor, civilization and keeping qualities are concerned. As a commercial commodity, it is non whatever more expensive than any adept kind of potato. It grows where the irish potato will not thrive, and vice versa. It thus saves much in freight to parts where the white potato does not abound.
The ancient colocasium is no dubiety a close relative of the modern dasheen or taro. The Apician colocasium was perhaps very similar to the ordinary Elephant-Ear, colocasium Antiquorum Schott, often chosen caladium esculentum, or tanyah, more recently called the "Dasheen" which is a abuse of the French "de Chine" — from China — indicating the supposed origin of this variety of taro. The dasheen is a broad-leaved fellow member of the arum family. The name dasheen originated in the West Indies whence it was imported into the United States around 1910, and the proper name is now officially adopted.
Marker Catesby, in his Natural History of Carolina, Florida and the Bahamas, London, 1781, describes briefly under the name of arum maximum Aegyptiacum a plant which was doubtless one of the tanyahs or taros. He says: "This was a welcome improvement amidst the negroes, and was esteemed a blessing; they being delighted with all their African food, particularly this, which a nifty part of Africa subsists much on."
Torinus, groping for the right name, calls it variously colosium, coledium, coloesium, till he finally gets information technology right, colocasium.
3 The root or tubers of this plant was used past the ancients every bit a vegetable. They probably boiled and then peeled and sliced the tubers, seasoning the pieces with the above ingredients, and heated them in bouillon stock and thickened the gravy in the usual way. Since the tuber is very starchy, trivial roux is required for binding.
4 Afterthought by Tor. printed in italics on the margin of his book.
323 Milk-fed Snails
Cochleas lacte pastas
Take snails and sponge them; pull them out of the shells by the membrane and identify them for a mean solar day in a vessel with milk and salt.1 Renew the milk daily. Hourly2 clean the snails of all refuse, and when they are then fatty that they can no longer retire to their shells fry them in oil and serve p180them with wine sauce. In a similar fashion they may exist fed on a milk porridge.three
i Just enough so they practise non drown.
2 Wanting inTor.
3 The Romans raised snails for the table in special places called cochlearia. Fulviusa Hirpinus is credited with having popularized the snail in Rome a little before the civil wars between Caesar and Pompey. If we could believe Varro, snails grew to enormous proportions. A supper of the younger Pliny consisted of a head of lettuce, 3 snails, two eggs, a barley-cake, sweet wine, refrigerated in snow.
Snails equally a food are not sufficiently appreciated by the Germanic races who do non hesitate to eat similar animals and are very fond of such nutrient every bit oysters, clams, mussels, Cocles, etc., much of which they fifty-fifty swallow in the raw land.
324 Another Fashion
Aliter
The snails are fried with pure salt and oil and a sauce of light amplification by stimulated emission of radiation, broth, pepper and oil is underlaid; or the fried snails are fully covered with broth, pepper and cumin.
Tor. divides this into three articles.
325 Another Mode for Snails
Aliter cochleas
The live snails are sprinkled with milk mixed with the finest wheat flour, when fatty and prissy and plump they are cooked.
326 Fried Eggs
Ova frixa
Fried eggs are finished in wine sauce.
327 Boiled Eggs
Ova elixa
Are seasoned with broth, oil, pure wine, or are served with broth, pepper and laser.
328 With Poached Eggs
In ovis hapalis
Serve pepper, lovage, soaked nuts, honey, vinegar and broth.
End of Volume Vii
Explicit Apicii polyteles: Liber septimus [Tac.]
Thayer'south Notation:
a Vehling writes "Fluvius Hirpinus"; a mistake (repeated in BookEight) that I'd unremarkably just correct and mark with 1 of my piffling bullets,º were it not that book afterwards book has picked it up and repeated information technology: poor scholarship doesn't go back to the original. . . .
The man's name was Fulvius or but maybe Flavius (less likely because it was commoner much later in Rome'southward history): both are mutual man's names and both hateful "blond". Fluvius is non a personal name, and ways "river".
Every bit to his last name, or more properly his nomen, the manuscripts disagree. Mayhoff, the editor of Pliny, believes Lippinus to be the correct reading: H. N. Eight.211; the human being is mentioned again in a similar connection at VIII.211.
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Source: https://penelope.uchicago.edu/Thayer/E/Roman/Texts/Apicius/7*.html
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